https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=71.142.72.99&feedformat=atomSeattleEVA - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T20:40:18ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.34.1https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Electrical_Formulas&diff=5934Electrical Formulas2006-10-22T20:03:42Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
==J=Q x E==<br />
<br />
Where J = is the energy absorbed in a<br />
electrical circuit in watt-seconds (joules)<br />
<br />
Q = Coulombs is the quantity of electricity<br />
which is transferred between two points<br />
<br />
E = Voltage or Electro Motive Force<br />
<br />
<br />
Dividing both sides of the equation by time it takes for the quantity Q to flow in a circuits becomes:<br />
<br />
J/T = (Q x E)/T or P = I x E<br />
<br />
Where P Is the Power in amount of time.<br />
<br />
I is the flow of current (coulombs per second, or more commonly amps. 1C/s = 1A)<br />
<br />
E is the EMF measured in Volts<br />
<br />
<br />
Simplify to:<br />
<br />
W = I x E (watts or energy - no time)<br />
<br />
Wh = I x E (watt hour - amount for 1 hour)<br />
<br />
<br />
===Example:===<br />
<br />
If you are charging a battery pack at 240 volts AC at 50 amps AC, then 240V x 50A = 12 KW or 12,000 watts (input into the charger)<br />
<br />
If you charge for 1 hour, than this will become 12 KWH or if you charge for <br />
1 second, than the cost of Power will be 12 Kw/3600 secs (3600 seconds in <br />
a hour).<br />
<br />
If you drive the EV for one hour at 50 battery amps and 100 volts, than you will use about 50 ADC x 100 VDC = 5KW Per Hour or 5KWH.<br />
<br />
The HP (horsepower) use, where 1 HP = 746 watts:<br />
<br />
HP = Watts/ 746 = 5000 / 746 = 6.7 HP<br />
<br />
<br />
If you look on some motor labels on a motor, or in the specifications of that motor, You may see data as:<br />
<br />
165V @ 175A 32HP 6000 RPM 83% Effiency.<br />
<br />
To calculate this:<br />
<br />
W = 165V x 175A = 28,875 watts (input power)<br />
<br />
28,875 x .83 = 23,966 watts (output power)<br />
<br />
HP = 23,966 / 746 = 32.1 HP<br />
<br />
<br />
Roland</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Conversions&diff=5933Conversions2006-10-22T18:26:42Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>A '''conversion electric vehicle''' is a car which has been converted from an internal combustion engine (ICE) drive to an [[Electric vehicle|electric propulsion drive vehicle]]. The conversion EV is the most widespread form of electric vehicle on the road today.<br />
<br />
One reason the conversion is so popular among EV enthusiasts (aside from the relative lack of economical [[Production|production electric vehicles]]) is the possibility of recycling an ICE car which has otherwise outlived its useful life. Another has to do with the fact that the [[Scratchbuilt Electric Vehicle|scratchbuilt EV]] must incorporate the plethora of complex features normally available ready-made on a conversion candidate vehicle: the drive system, all of the mandated safety features, creature comforts, product design, and the frame itself.<br />
<br />
Almost any small, compact ICE vehicle in good structural condition can form the basis for a successful EV conversion. The first step in the process is to remove all of the systems related solely to the gas powered engine drive system: the engine itself, the starter motor, the fuel tank, exhaust pipes, muffler, and cooling system (radiator).<br />
<br />
The major components of the electric propulsion system consist of an [[electric motor]], [[batteries]], a [[charger]], and a [[controller]]. Additionally, various items of support hardware are required, including connectors (wiring), safety devices (fuses), monitoring devices, and interface hardware (such as the [[adaptor plate]]).<br />
<br />
The items necessary for a conversion can be purchased separately or in kit form. In some cases, the kits which are available are specifically tailored to the type of vehicle. In any case, the component parts must work well together as a ''system''.<br />
<br />
==Costs for a Sample Conversions==<br />
<br />
In general, any small car can be converted / recycled to electric drive. Essentially all the complex systems such as the "exhaust system", "cooling system", "fuel delivery system", and motor are replaced with the following:<br />
<br />
An advanced DC [[electric motor]] connected to the existing standard transmission via an [[adaptor plate]]. Motor $1450. Adaptor Plate $700.<br />
<br />
Electronic transistorized [[controller]] (like a giant light dimmer) controls your power and speed. By Curtis-PMC $800. <br />
<br />
[[Battery charger]], fully automatic. Plug it in and walk away for days without harm to the batteries. $400. <br />
<br />
[[Batteries]], 10 - 12 volt, 0r 20 - 6 volt, deep cycle lead acid totaling 120 volts. Choice is one of maximum acceleration or maximum range. $950 <br />
<br />
On/Off power relays, h.d. fuses, h.d. connectors, battery cables, volt meter (measures pressure) and an ammeter (to measure to flow or use of the electricity) $1,200. <br />
<br />
Total hardware $5,500 Assembly and labor (approximately 200 hours) $2,900. <br />
<br />
Approximate grand total $8,500 (plus the donor vehicle)<br />
<br />
Variables exist from car to car as to total labor. There are various upgrades available in equipment and instrumentation to customize the car to the customers liking. * Prices subject to changes without notice by suppliers.<br />
<br />
==Local Conversions==<br />
* Catch a glimpse of a local man and his fathers [[Chevrolet S10 EV|Electric S10 Pickup]] in this [http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3909632706885280284&q=Electric+Cars&hl=en video clip] of Stephens <!--Johnson--> Project ''GotLinks?''.<br />
* The many conversions of Dave Cloud<br />
* A cute red and black porsche<br />
* Goldie and the Ferro of Rich Rudman<br />
* ''...anyone care to flesh out this list...''<br />
<br />
==Annotated On-line References==<br />
<br />
* The [http://evalbum.com EV Photo Album] is an excellent place to learn all about the range, performance, components used, and types of vehicles that have been converted. There are many types of cars, trucks, bikes, boats, and even vehicles that defy description to check out. More than 800 entries and rising weekly. [http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/build Details on conversions] <br />
<br />
* The [http://www.evdl.org Electric Vehicle Discussion List] is an extremely active list which contains a wealth of valuable information about electric vehicles. Take the time to search the archives! You can really get an education on the subject here. Just a small sampling of the folks you will find on the EV Discussion List: Many folks that are doing or have done their own conversions. Some have been driving EVs for decades. Most all the folks who... sell EV parts, design EVs, build custom EVs and do conversions, are on this list. Also... most of the EV drag racers are there, as are the folks who design and manufacture the best and most powerful motor controllers, motors, and chargers.<br />
<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Electric_Vehicle_Conversion EV Conversion] - excellent article from Wikbooks.<br />
<br />
* [http://www.peakoil.com/fortopic9721.html Advice on building an electric car for those interested] - from PeakOil.com<br />
<br />
* [http://www.evsupersite.net/ Converting a 1996 Saturn], by Ken Norwick - of Calgary, Alberta Canada. ken.norwick-at-shaw.ca. Over 200 pages describing a complete electric vehicle conversion project. Hundreds of images document the process in complete detail. This site receives visitors from between 8 to 16 time zones per day. The largest personal EV Conversion Diary on the Internet today. <br />
<br />
* [http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/build ''So you want to Build an Electric Car''], by Mike Chancey<br />
<br />
* [http://www.jerryrig.com/convert Jerry Halstead's conversions]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.electroauto.com Electro-Automotive's web site and price information]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.crosswinds.net/~wtallent/ My Electric MGB Project]<br />
<br />
* [http://jerryrig.com/convert Jerry Halstead's site]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/5565/civic/civic.html Mike Chancey's Civic conversion journal]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.spaces.msn.com/members/dbd3 Don Davidson Conversion blog]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/8679/ev.html Yve's EV Calculator] with charts and graphs on Dozens of the most commonly used EV batteries and EV motors . Also a fantastic EV Calculator program, where you can punch in the type of car, motor, batteries, operating parameters and get a feeling for performance and range expectations.<br />
<br />
* Schematics for EVs http://www.electricvehiclesusa.com/category_s/36.htm<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_vehicle_conversion - '''Wikipedia'''<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electric Vehicles]]<br />
[[Category:Primary Page]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Electric_motor&diff=5932Electric motor2006-10-22T18:16:10Z<p>71.142.72.99: /* DC motors */</p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Electric motor]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]<br />
<br />
==DC motors==<br />
<br />
* ADC motors http://www.adcmotors.com/ Dealer: http://www.electricvehiclesusa.com/<br />
* Warp motors http://www.go-ev.com/<br />
<br />
Another thing to pay attention too is the motor specs. Many times you can use a motor for WAY over it's rated specs. Motor manufacturers will often sell the EXACT same motor to two different companies with two different labels stating different specs. If a company comes along and needs a motor and they already have one that will work in that application, they will simply relabel the existing motor rather than design a new one.<br />
<br />
Take for example this 2hp 9" GE motor selling for $200 at Surplus Center:<br />
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2006102212332689&item=10-2120&catname=electric<br />
<br />
This looks to me like GE took one of their nominal 96V 10hp motors and slapped a 24V 2hp label on it. Take particular note of the 1050RPM rating, this motor can easily handle 4 or 5 times this much. This is a huge motor, I think this is similar to the GE motor that many of the drag racers like to use. It's even bigger than the GE motor in my pickup.<br />
<br />
==Ac Motors==<br />
* http://www.metricmind.com/<br />
* http://www.acpropulsion.com/</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5931Motor controller2006-10-22T18:11:14Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
===Contactor===<br />
Simplest controller - just a contactor (high current relay) to turn the power on or off. Could have more than one contactor and resistors to enable stepped speed control.<br />
<br />
===DC===<br />
The most commonly used controllers - for DC motors<br />
popular manufacturers:<br />
* [http://www.curtisinst.com/Curtis Curtis]<br />
* [http://cafeelectric.com/ Zilla]<br />
<br />
Other manufacturers:<br />
* http://www.belktronix.com/<br />
* Dc Power Systems Raptor http://www.dcpowersystems.com/r600fly.htm (out of business?)<br />
<br />
Do it yourself schematics: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/tech/<br />
====Wish List====<br />
My essential spec/feature list for a Curtis"-Killer" DC controller is:<br />
<br />
* 600 adjustable battery amps<br />
* handles at least the range of 96-144V; 156V is almost essential, and up to ~200V would be even better<br />
* precharge/contactor control<br />
* basic fault detection (open/short throttle, high pedal lockout)<br />
* rev limiter (and a tach drive output sure would be nice)<br />
* integrated heatsink (water-cooled is preferable<br />
* priced on par with 1231C + appropriate heatsink.<br />
* contactor failure detection<br />
* controller failure detection & auto contactor dropout<br />
<br />
''I got a kit from KTA using a 1231C-7701 for my 120v system.''<br />
<br />
Did they tell you up front that this controller will cause your EV's drive motor to make an irritating non-varying squeal when you take off or cruise with a light throttle? Did they tell you that this controller has no safety features? Did they tell you it has no automatic precharge, and that if you don't design your own, it could blow up when the line contactor engages and send your EV off at full throttle? Did they tell you it cannot be adjusted for a battery input current limit to protect your battery pack investment? My guess is no to all the above.<br />
<br />
If it's not too late, you could save a bundle by purchasing a used Curtis 1221B controller. It's a bit less powerful at 400 amps, but it's silent and you could get one for maybe $300 if anyone has one available. <br />
The money saved would allow you to build a precharge circuit and pocket at least $500 cash, too. Better still, a used Raptor 600 could be found for maybe $800, is silent, properly cooled, has dip switch programming, and 900 amps motor loop current.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a [http://www.curtisinst.com/ Curtis]?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
Is this one of those comments again, where one has to have read everything that came before and know that you might be talking about wet cell type batteries (and just didn't specify this), or do you really think that currents this low will harm powerful AGMs like Optimas, Hawkers, and Orbitals? Those of us using AGMs of higher quality know that the opposite is true, in that the high performance type AGMs actually give their best service life routinely dishing out BIG currents. 600 amps from the better AGMs is nothing. The Optimas in Blue Meanie lasted 6.5 years, and pretty close to each time it was taken out for a run, 1000 amps were sucked from them multiple times. Sure, under all out racing where you might suck 1000 amps from small 24.5 lb. <br />
batteries for 12 continuous seconds, it is stressful and sometimes fatal for the batteries, but for normal fun street driving 1000 amps for 5-6 seconds from larger 40+ lb. AGMs is kid's stuff....besides, you're already well above the speed limit in that amount of time and will be off throttle and back to sub 100 amp levels.<br />
<br />
===AC===<br />
Controllers for AC motors<br />
* [http://www.acpropulsion.com/ AC Propulsion]<br />
* Vendor of Siemens AC motors and controllers http://www.metricmind.com/<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Batteries&diff=5930Batteries2006-10-22T17:53:28Z<p>71.142.72.99: /* Battery Calculations */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{TOCright}}<br />
{{Batteries}}<br />
<br />
====Primary (Disposable)====<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-carbon battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Alkaline battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Silver-oxide battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Lithium battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Mercury battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-air battery]]<br />
<br />
====Secondary (Rechargeable)====<br />
* [[PbA|Lead-acid battery]]<br />
** [[Absorbed glass mat]]<br />
** [[WikiPedia:Gel battery]]<br />
** [[Flooded]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-cadmium battery]] & [[Ni|Nickel metal hydride battery]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-zinc battery]]<br />
* [[Li|lithium-ion battery]] & [[Li|lithium ion polymer battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:NaS battery]]<br />
* [[Sodium-metal chloride battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Vanadium redox battery]]<br />
* http://www.zmp.com/ - Zinc Matrix Power<br />
<br />
===Traction batteries===<br />
Traction batteries (secondary batteries or accumulators) are designed to provide power to move a vehicle, such as an electric car or tow motor.<br />
To prevent spilling, the electrolyte in some traction batteries is gelled. The electrolyte may also be embedded in a glass wool which is wound so that the cells have a round cross-sectional area ([[Absorbed glass mat|AGM-type]]).<br />
The following types are also in use[http://www.madkatz.com/ev/battery.html]:<br />
* Zebra NiNaCl (or NaNiCl) battery operating at 270 °C requiring cooling in case of temperature excursions<br />
* NiZn battery (higher cell voltage 1.6 V and thus 25% increased specific energy, very short lifespan)<br />
<br />
Lithium-ion batteries are now pushing out NiMh-technology in the sector while for low investment costs the lead-acid technology remains in the leading role[http://www.e-mobile.ch/pdf/2005/Subat_WP5-006.pdf].<br />
<br />
===Flow batteries===<br />
[[Flow Battery|Flow batteries]] are a special class of battery where additional quantities of [[electrolyte]] are stored outside the main power cell of the battery, and circulated through it by pumps or by movement. Flow batteries can have extremely large capacities and are used in marine applications and are gaining popularity in [[grid energy storage]] applications. [[EVDL_Maillist:2006./2./1016]]<br />
<br />
== Battery Calculations ==<br />
What size and how many batteries do I need?<br />
* [[Electrical Formulas]]<br />
'''Given a 96 Volt Flooded Lead Acid battery pack using 16 six volt batteries, what is the formula used to determine voltage & amperage? '''<br />
<br />
In a series string the Volts are additive, in a parallel string the Amps (or amp/hours) are additive. <br />
* So in series, if your batteries are rated for 125 amps, you'll have 6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+etc = 96 volts at 125 amps. <br />
* When you put them in parallel it would be 125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+etc = 2000amps at 6 v.<br />
<br />
== Battery Charging ==<br />
[[Battery Charging]]<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* http://freeenergynews.com/Directory/Battery/index.html<br />
<br />
==Dimension Standards==<br />
http://www.definity-systems.net/Transportation/EV/Li-ion/Regular/BCIdimensions.html<br />
<br />
{| BORDER=1<br />
| colspan=7 |<br />
BCI GROUP NUMBERS AND DIMENSIONS<br />
Contact BCI, 401 N. Michigan ave, Chicago IL 60611-4267, (312) 644-6610<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER COLSPAN=7 | Maximum Overall Dimensions<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=center | '''Group #'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Millimeters'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Inches'''<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
|-<br />
| '''21''' || 208 || 173 || 222 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22F''' || 241 || 175 || 211 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22HF''' || 241 || 175 || 229 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22NF''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22R''' || 229 || 175 || 211 || 9 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24''' || 260 || 173 || 225 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24F''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24H''' || 260 || 173 || 238 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24R''' || 260 || 173 || 229 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24T''' || 260 || 173 || 248 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''25''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26R''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27''' || 306 || 173 || 225 || 12 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27F''' || 318 || 173 || 227 || 12 1/2 || 6 13/16 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27H''' || 298 || 173 || 235 || 11 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''29NF''' || 330 || 140 || 227 || 13 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''33''' || 338 || 173 || 238 || 13 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 13/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34R''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''35''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''36R''' || 263 || 183 || 206 || 10 3/8 || 7 1/4 || 8 1/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''40R''' || 277 || 175 || 175 || 10 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''41''' || 293 || 175 || 175 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''42''' || 243 || 173 || 173 || 9 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''43''' || 334 || 175 || 205 || 13 1/8 || 6 7/8 || 8 1/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''45''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''46''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''47''' || 246 || 175 || 190 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''48''' || 306 || 175 || 192 || 12 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''49''' || 381 || 175 || 192 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 7 3/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''50''' || 343 || 127 || 254 || 13 1/2 || 5 || 10 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51R''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''52''' || 186 || 147 || 210 || 7 5/16 || 5 13/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''53''' || 330 || 119 || 210 || 13 || 4 11/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''54''' || 186 || 154 || 212 || 7 5/16 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''55''' || 218 || 154 || 212 || 8 5/8 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''56''' || 254 || 154 || 222 || 10 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''57''' || 205 || 183 || 177 || 8 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58R''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''59''' || 255 || 193 || 196 || 10 1/16 || 7 5/8 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''60''' || 332 || 160 || 225 || 13 1/16 || 6 5/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''61''' || 192 || 162 || 225 || 7 9/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''62''' || 225 || 162 || 225 || 8 7/8 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''63''' || 258 || 162 || 225 || 10 3/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''64''' || 296 || 162 || 225 || 11 11/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''65''' || 306 || 190 || 292 || 12 1/16 || 7 1/2 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''70''' || 208 || 179 || 196 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''71''' || 208 || 179 || 216 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''72''' || 230 || 179 || 210 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''73''' || 230 || 179 || 216 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''74''' || 260 || 184 || 222 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/4 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''75''' || 230 || 179 || 196 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''76''' || 334 || 179 || 216 || 13 1/8 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''78''' || 260 || 179 || 196 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''85''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''86''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''90''' || 246 || 175 || 175 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''91''' || 280 || 175 || 175 || 11 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''92''' || 317 || 175 || 175 || 12 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''93''' || 354 || 175 || 175 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''95R''' || 394 || 175 || 190 || 15 9/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''96R''' || 242 || 173 || 175 || 9 9/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''97R''' || 252 || 175 || 190 || 9 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''98R''' || 283 || 175 || 190 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Battery Chemistries|*]]<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Batteries&diff=5929Batteries2006-10-22T17:52:45Z<p>71.142.72.99: /* Battery Calculations */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{TOCright}}<br />
{{Batteries}}<br />
<br />
====Primary (Disposable)====<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-carbon battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Alkaline battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Silver-oxide battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Lithium battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Mercury battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-air battery]]<br />
<br />
====Secondary (Rechargeable)====<br />
* [[PbA|Lead-acid battery]]<br />
** [[Absorbed glass mat]]<br />
** [[WikiPedia:Gel battery]]<br />
** [[Flooded]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-cadmium battery]] & [[Ni|Nickel metal hydride battery]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-zinc battery]]<br />
* [[Li|lithium-ion battery]] & [[Li|lithium ion polymer battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:NaS battery]]<br />
* [[Sodium-metal chloride battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Vanadium redox battery]]<br />
* http://www.zmp.com/ - Zinc Matrix Power<br />
<br />
===Traction batteries===<br />
Traction batteries (secondary batteries or accumulators) are designed to provide power to move a vehicle, such as an electric car or tow motor.<br />
To prevent spilling, the electrolyte in some traction batteries is gelled. The electrolyte may also be embedded in a glass wool which is wound so that the cells have a round cross-sectional area ([[Absorbed glass mat|AGM-type]]).<br />
The following types are also in use[http://www.madkatz.com/ev/battery.html]:<br />
* Zebra NiNaCl (or NaNiCl) battery operating at 270 °C requiring cooling in case of temperature excursions<br />
* NiZn battery (higher cell voltage 1.6 V and thus 25% increased specific energy, very short lifespan)<br />
<br />
Lithium-ion batteries are now pushing out NiMh-technology in the sector while for low investment costs the lead-acid technology remains in the leading role[http://www.e-mobile.ch/pdf/2005/Subat_WP5-006.pdf].<br />
<br />
===Flow batteries===<br />
[[Flow Battery|Flow batteries]] are a special class of battery where additional quantities of [[electrolyte]] are stored outside the main power cell of the battery, and circulated through it by pumps or by movement. Flow batteries can have extremely large capacities and are used in marine applications and are gaining popularity in [[grid energy storage]] applications. [[EVDL_Maillist:2006./2./1016]]<br />
<br />
== Battery Calculations ==<br />
What size and how many batteries do I need?<br />
* [[Electrical Formulas]]<br />
'''Given a 96 Volt Flooded Lead Acid battery pack using 16 six volt batteries, what is the formula used to determine wattage & amperage? '''<br />
<br />
In a series string the Volts are additive, in a parallel string the Amps (or amp/hours) are additive. <br />
* So in series, if your batteries are rated for 125 amps, you'll have 6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+etc = 96 volts at 125 amps. <br />
* When you put them in parallel it would be 125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+etc = 2000amps at 6 v.<br />
<br />
== Battery Charging ==<br />
[[Battery Charging]]<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* http://freeenergynews.com/Directory/Battery/index.html<br />
<br />
==Dimension Standards==<br />
http://www.definity-systems.net/Transportation/EV/Li-ion/Regular/BCIdimensions.html<br />
<br />
{| BORDER=1<br />
| colspan=7 |<br />
BCI GROUP NUMBERS AND DIMENSIONS<br />
Contact BCI, 401 N. Michigan ave, Chicago IL 60611-4267, (312) 644-6610<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER COLSPAN=7 | Maximum Overall Dimensions<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=center | '''Group #'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Millimeters'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Inches'''<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
|-<br />
| '''21''' || 208 || 173 || 222 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22F''' || 241 || 175 || 211 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22HF''' || 241 || 175 || 229 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22NF''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22R''' || 229 || 175 || 211 || 9 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24''' || 260 || 173 || 225 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24F''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24H''' || 260 || 173 || 238 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24R''' || 260 || 173 || 229 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24T''' || 260 || 173 || 248 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''25''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26R''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27''' || 306 || 173 || 225 || 12 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27F''' || 318 || 173 || 227 || 12 1/2 || 6 13/16 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27H''' || 298 || 173 || 235 || 11 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''29NF''' || 330 || 140 || 227 || 13 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''33''' || 338 || 173 || 238 || 13 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 13/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34R''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''35''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''36R''' || 263 || 183 || 206 || 10 3/8 || 7 1/4 || 8 1/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''40R''' || 277 || 175 || 175 || 10 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''41''' || 293 || 175 || 175 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''42''' || 243 || 173 || 173 || 9 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''43''' || 334 || 175 || 205 || 13 1/8 || 6 7/8 || 8 1/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''45''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''46''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''47''' || 246 || 175 || 190 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''48''' || 306 || 175 || 192 || 12 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''49''' || 381 || 175 || 192 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 7 3/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''50''' || 343 || 127 || 254 || 13 1/2 || 5 || 10 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51R''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''52''' || 186 || 147 || 210 || 7 5/16 || 5 13/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''53''' || 330 || 119 || 210 || 13 || 4 11/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''54''' || 186 || 154 || 212 || 7 5/16 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''55''' || 218 || 154 || 212 || 8 5/8 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''56''' || 254 || 154 || 222 || 10 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''57''' || 205 || 183 || 177 || 8 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58R''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''59''' || 255 || 193 || 196 || 10 1/16 || 7 5/8 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''60''' || 332 || 160 || 225 || 13 1/16 || 6 5/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''61''' || 192 || 162 || 225 || 7 9/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''62''' || 225 || 162 || 225 || 8 7/8 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''63''' || 258 || 162 || 225 || 10 3/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''64''' || 296 || 162 || 225 || 11 11/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''65''' || 306 || 190 || 292 || 12 1/16 || 7 1/2 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''70''' || 208 || 179 || 196 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''71''' || 208 || 179 || 216 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''72''' || 230 || 179 || 210 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''73''' || 230 || 179 || 216 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''74''' || 260 || 184 || 222 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/4 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''75''' || 230 || 179 || 196 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''76''' || 334 || 179 || 216 || 13 1/8 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''78''' || 260 || 179 || 196 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''85''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''86''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''90''' || 246 || 175 || 175 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''91''' || 280 || 175 || 175 || 11 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''92''' || 317 || 175 || 175 || 12 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''93''' || 354 || 175 || 175 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''95R''' || 394 || 175 || 190 || 15 9/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''96R''' || 242 || 173 || 175 || 9 9/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''97R''' || 252 || 175 || 190 || 9 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''98R''' || 283 || 175 || 190 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Battery Chemistries|*]]<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Batteries&diff=5928Batteries2006-10-22T17:52:07Z<p>71.142.72.99: /* Battery Calculations */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{TOCright}}<br />
{{Batteries}}<br />
<br />
====Primary (Disposable)====<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-carbon battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Alkaline battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Silver-oxide battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Lithium battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Mercury battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-air battery]]<br />
<br />
====Secondary (Rechargeable)====<br />
* [[PbA|Lead-acid battery]]<br />
** [[Absorbed glass mat]]<br />
** [[WikiPedia:Gel battery]]<br />
** [[Flooded]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-cadmium battery]] & [[Ni|Nickel metal hydride battery]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-zinc battery]]<br />
* [[Li|lithium-ion battery]] & [[Li|lithium ion polymer battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:NaS battery]]<br />
* [[Sodium-metal chloride battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Vanadium redox battery]]<br />
* http://www.zmp.com/ - Zinc Matrix Power<br />
<br />
===Traction batteries===<br />
Traction batteries (secondary batteries or accumulators) are designed to provide power to move a vehicle, such as an electric car or tow motor.<br />
To prevent spilling, the electrolyte in some traction batteries is gelled. The electrolyte may also be embedded in a glass wool which is wound so that the cells have a round cross-sectional area ([[Absorbed glass mat|AGM-type]]).<br />
The following types are also in use[http://www.madkatz.com/ev/battery.html]:<br />
* Zebra NiNaCl (or NaNiCl) battery operating at 270 °C requiring cooling in case of temperature excursions<br />
* NiZn battery (higher cell voltage 1.6 V and thus 25% increased specific energy, very short lifespan)<br />
<br />
Lithium-ion batteries are now pushing out NiMh-technology in the sector while for low investment costs the lead-acid technology remains in the leading role[http://www.e-mobile.ch/pdf/2005/Subat_WP5-006.pdf].<br />
<br />
===Flow batteries===<br />
[[Flow Battery|Flow batteries]] are a special class of battery where additional quantities of [[electrolyte]] are stored outside the main power cell of the battery, and circulated through it by pumps or by movement. Flow batteries can have extremely large capacities and are used in marine applications and are gaining popularity in [[grid energy storage]] applications. [[EVDL_Maillist:2006./2./1016]]<br />
<br />
== Battery Calculations ==<br />
What size and how many batteries do I need?<br />
* [[Electrical Formulas]]<br />
'''Given a 96 Volt Flooded Lead Acid battery pack using 16 six volt batteries, what is the formula used to determine wattage & amperage? '''<br />
<br />
In a series string the Volts are additive, in a parallel string the Amps (or amp/hours) are additive. <br />
* So in series, if your batteries are rated for 125 amps, you'll have <br />
6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+etc = 96 volts at 125 amps. <br />
<br />
* When you put them in parallel it would be 125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+etc = 2000amps at 6 v.<br />
<br />
== Battery Charging ==<br />
[[Battery Charging]]<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* http://freeenergynews.com/Directory/Battery/index.html<br />
<br />
==Dimension Standards==<br />
http://www.definity-systems.net/Transportation/EV/Li-ion/Regular/BCIdimensions.html<br />
<br />
{| BORDER=1<br />
| colspan=7 |<br />
BCI GROUP NUMBERS AND DIMENSIONS<br />
Contact BCI, 401 N. Michigan ave, Chicago IL 60611-4267, (312) 644-6610<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER COLSPAN=7 | Maximum Overall Dimensions<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=center | '''Group #'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Millimeters'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Inches'''<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
|-<br />
| '''21''' || 208 || 173 || 222 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22F''' || 241 || 175 || 211 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22HF''' || 241 || 175 || 229 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22NF''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22R''' || 229 || 175 || 211 || 9 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24''' || 260 || 173 || 225 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24F''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24H''' || 260 || 173 || 238 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24R''' || 260 || 173 || 229 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24T''' || 260 || 173 || 248 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''25''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26R''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27''' || 306 || 173 || 225 || 12 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27F''' || 318 || 173 || 227 || 12 1/2 || 6 13/16 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27H''' || 298 || 173 || 235 || 11 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''29NF''' || 330 || 140 || 227 || 13 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''33''' || 338 || 173 || 238 || 13 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 13/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34R''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''35''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''36R''' || 263 || 183 || 206 || 10 3/8 || 7 1/4 || 8 1/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''40R''' || 277 || 175 || 175 || 10 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''41''' || 293 || 175 || 175 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''42''' || 243 || 173 || 173 || 9 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''43''' || 334 || 175 || 205 || 13 1/8 || 6 7/8 || 8 1/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''45''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''46''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''47''' || 246 || 175 || 190 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''48''' || 306 || 175 || 192 || 12 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''49''' || 381 || 175 || 192 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 7 3/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''50''' || 343 || 127 || 254 || 13 1/2 || 5 || 10 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51R''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''52''' || 186 || 147 || 210 || 7 5/16 || 5 13/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''53''' || 330 || 119 || 210 || 13 || 4 11/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''54''' || 186 || 154 || 212 || 7 5/16 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''55''' || 218 || 154 || 212 || 8 5/8 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''56''' || 254 || 154 || 222 || 10 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''57''' || 205 || 183 || 177 || 8 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58R''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''59''' || 255 || 193 || 196 || 10 1/16 || 7 5/8 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''60''' || 332 || 160 || 225 || 13 1/16 || 6 5/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''61''' || 192 || 162 || 225 || 7 9/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''62''' || 225 || 162 || 225 || 8 7/8 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''63''' || 258 || 162 || 225 || 10 3/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''64''' || 296 || 162 || 225 || 11 11/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''65''' || 306 || 190 || 292 || 12 1/16 || 7 1/2 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''70''' || 208 || 179 || 196 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''71''' || 208 || 179 || 216 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''72''' || 230 || 179 || 210 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''73''' || 230 || 179 || 216 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''74''' || 260 || 184 || 222 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/4 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''75''' || 230 || 179 || 196 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''76''' || 334 || 179 || 216 || 13 1/8 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''78''' || 260 || 179 || 196 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''85''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''86''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''90''' || 246 || 175 || 175 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''91''' || 280 || 175 || 175 || 11 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''92''' || 317 || 175 || 175 || 12 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''93''' || 354 || 175 || 175 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''95R''' || 394 || 175 || 190 || 15 9/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''96R''' || 242 || 173 || 175 || 9 9/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''97R''' || 252 || 175 || 190 || 9 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''98R''' || 283 || 175 || 190 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Battery Chemistries|*]]<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Batteries&diff=5927Batteries2006-10-22T17:49:33Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{TOCright}}<br />
{{Batteries}}<br />
<br />
====Primary (Disposable)====<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-carbon battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Alkaline battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Silver-oxide battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Lithium battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Mercury battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-air battery]]<br />
<br />
====Secondary (Rechargeable)====<br />
* [[PbA|Lead-acid battery]]<br />
** [[Absorbed glass mat]]<br />
** [[WikiPedia:Gel battery]]<br />
** [[Flooded]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-cadmium battery]] & [[Ni|Nickel metal hydride battery]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-zinc battery]]<br />
* [[Li|lithium-ion battery]] & [[Li|lithium ion polymer battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:NaS battery]]<br />
* [[Sodium-metal chloride battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Vanadium redox battery]]<br />
* http://www.zmp.com/ - Zinc Matrix Power<br />
<br />
===Traction batteries===<br />
Traction batteries (secondary batteries or accumulators) are designed to provide power to move a vehicle, such as an electric car or tow motor.<br />
To prevent spilling, the electrolyte in some traction batteries is gelled. The electrolyte may also be embedded in a glass wool which is wound so that the cells have a round cross-sectional area ([[Absorbed glass mat|AGM-type]]).<br />
The following types are also in use[http://www.madkatz.com/ev/battery.html]:<br />
* Zebra NiNaCl (or NaNiCl) battery operating at 270 °C requiring cooling in case of temperature excursions<br />
* NiZn battery (higher cell voltage 1.6 V and thus 25% increased specific energy, very short lifespan)<br />
<br />
Lithium-ion batteries are now pushing out NiMh-technology in the sector while for low investment costs the lead-acid technology remains in the leading role[http://www.e-mobile.ch/pdf/2005/Subat_WP5-006.pdf].<br />
<br />
===Flow batteries===<br />
[[Flow Battery|Flow batteries]] are a special class of battery where additional quantities of [[electrolyte]] are stored outside the main power cell of the battery, and circulated through it by pumps or by movement. Flow batteries can have extremely large capacities and are used in marine applications and are gaining popularity in [[grid energy storage]] applications. [[EVDL_Maillist:2006./2./1016]]<br />
<br />
== Battery Calculations ==<br />
What size and how many batteries do I need?<br />
* [[Electrical Formulas]]<br />
'''Given a 96 Volt Flooded Lead Acid battery pack using 16 six volt batteries, what is the formula used to determine wattage & amperage? '''<br />
<br />
* In a series string the Volts are additive, in a parallel string the amps are additive. So in series, if your batteries are 125 amps, you'll have <br />
6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+6v+etc = 96 volts at 125 amps. <br />
<br />
* When you put them in parallel it would be 125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+125a+etc = 2000amps at 6 v.<br />
<br />
== Battery Charging ==<br />
[[Battery Charging]]<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* http://freeenergynews.com/Directory/Battery/index.html<br />
<br />
==Dimension Standards==<br />
http://www.definity-systems.net/Transportation/EV/Li-ion/Regular/BCIdimensions.html<br />
<br />
{| BORDER=1<br />
| colspan=7 |<br />
BCI GROUP NUMBERS AND DIMENSIONS<br />
Contact BCI, 401 N. Michigan ave, Chicago IL 60611-4267, (312) 644-6610<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER COLSPAN=7 | Maximum Overall Dimensions<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=center | '''Group #'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Millimeters'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Inches'''<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
|-<br />
| '''21''' || 208 || 173 || 222 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22F''' || 241 || 175 || 211 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22HF''' || 241 || 175 || 229 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22NF''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22R''' || 229 || 175 || 211 || 9 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24''' || 260 || 173 || 225 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24F''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24H''' || 260 || 173 || 238 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24R''' || 260 || 173 || 229 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24T''' || 260 || 173 || 248 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''25''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26R''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27''' || 306 || 173 || 225 || 12 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27F''' || 318 || 173 || 227 || 12 1/2 || 6 13/16 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27H''' || 298 || 173 || 235 || 11 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''29NF''' || 330 || 140 || 227 || 13 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''33''' || 338 || 173 || 238 || 13 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 13/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34R''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''35''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''36R''' || 263 || 183 || 206 || 10 3/8 || 7 1/4 || 8 1/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''40R''' || 277 || 175 || 175 || 10 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''41''' || 293 || 175 || 175 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''42''' || 243 || 173 || 173 || 9 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''43''' || 334 || 175 || 205 || 13 1/8 || 6 7/8 || 8 1/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''45''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''46''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''47''' || 246 || 175 || 190 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''48''' || 306 || 175 || 192 || 12 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''49''' || 381 || 175 || 192 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 7 3/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''50''' || 343 || 127 || 254 || 13 1/2 || 5 || 10 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51R''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''52''' || 186 || 147 || 210 || 7 5/16 || 5 13/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''53''' || 330 || 119 || 210 || 13 || 4 11/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''54''' || 186 || 154 || 212 || 7 5/16 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''55''' || 218 || 154 || 212 || 8 5/8 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''56''' || 254 || 154 || 222 || 10 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''57''' || 205 || 183 || 177 || 8 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58R''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''59''' || 255 || 193 || 196 || 10 1/16 || 7 5/8 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''60''' || 332 || 160 || 225 || 13 1/16 || 6 5/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''61''' || 192 || 162 || 225 || 7 9/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''62''' || 225 || 162 || 225 || 8 7/8 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''63''' || 258 || 162 || 225 || 10 3/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''64''' || 296 || 162 || 225 || 11 11/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''65''' || 306 || 190 || 292 || 12 1/16 || 7 1/2 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''70''' || 208 || 179 || 196 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''71''' || 208 || 179 || 216 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''72''' || 230 || 179 || 210 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''73''' || 230 || 179 || 216 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''74''' || 260 || 184 || 222 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/4 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''75''' || 230 || 179 || 196 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''76''' || 334 || 179 || 216 || 13 1/8 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''78''' || 260 || 179 || 196 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''85''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''86''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''90''' || 246 || 175 || 175 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''91''' || 280 || 175 || 175 || 11 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''92''' || 317 || 175 || 175 || 12 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''93''' || 354 || 175 || 175 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''95R''' || 394 || 175 || 190 || 15 9/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''96R''' || 242 || 173 || 175 || 9 9/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''97R''' || 252 || 175 || 190 || 9 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''98R''' || 283 || 175 || 190 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Battery Chemistries|*]]<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Batteries&diff=5926Batteries2006-10-22T17:47:17Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{TOCright}}<br />
{{Batteries}}<br />
<br />
====Primary (Disposable)====<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-carbon battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Alkaline battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Silver-oxide battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Lithium battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Mercury battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-air battery]]<br />
<br />
====Secondary (Rechargeable)====<br />
* [[PbA|Lead-acid battery]]<br />
** [[Absorbed glass mat]]<br />
** [[WikiPedia:Gel battery]]<br />
** [[Flooded]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-cadmium battery]] & [[Ni|Nickel metal hydride battery]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-zinc battery]]<br />
* [[Li|lithium-ion battery]] & [[Li|lithium ion polymer battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:NaS battery]]<br />
* [[Sodium-metal chloride battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Vanadium redox battery]]<br />
* http://www.zmp.com/ - Zinc Matrix Power<br />
<br />
===Traction batteries===<br />
Traction batteries (secondary batteries or accumulators) are designed to provide power to move a vehicle, such as an electric car or tow motor.<br />
To prevent spilling, the electrolyte in some traction batteries is gelled. The electrolyte may also be embedded in a glass wool which is wound so that the cells have a round cross-sectional area ([[Absorbed glass mat|AGM-type]]).<br />
The following types are also in use[http://www.madkatz.com/ev/battery.html]:<br />
* Zebra NiNaCl (or NaNiCl) battery operating at 270 °C requiring cooling in case of temperature excursions<br />
* NiZn battery (higher cell voltage 1.6 V and thus 25% increased specific energy, very short lifespan)<br />
<br />
Lithium-ion batteries are now pushing out NiMh-technology in the sector while for low investment costs the lead-acid technology remains in the leading role[http://www.e-mobile.ch/pdf/2005/Subat_WP5-006.pdf].<br />
<br />
===Flow batteries===<br />
[[Flow Battery|Flow batteries]] are a special class of battery where additional quantities of [[electrolyte]] are stored outside the main power cell of the battery, and circulated through it by pumps or by movement. Flow batteries can have extremely large capacities and are used in marine applications and are gaining popularity in [[grid energy storage]] applications. [[EVDL_Maillist:2006./2./1016]]<br />
<br />
== Battery Calculations ==<br />
What size and how many batteries do I need?<br />
* [[Electrical Formulas]]<br />
== Battery Charging ==<br />
[[Battery Charging]]<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* http://freeenergynews.com/Directory/Battery/index.html<br />
<br />
==Dimension Standards==<br />
http://www.definity-systems.net/Transportation/EV/Li-ion/Regular/BCIdimensions.html<br />
<br />
{| BORDER=1<br />
| colspan=7 |<br />
BCI GROUP NUMBERS AND DIMENSIONS<br />
Contact BCI, 401 N. Michigan ave, Chicago IL 60611-4267, (312) 644-6610<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER COLSPAN=7 | Maximum Overall Dimensions<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=center | '''Group #'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Millimeters'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Inches'''<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
|-<br />
| '''21''' || 208 || 173 || 222 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22F''' || 241 || 175 || 211 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22HF''' || 241 || 175 || 229 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22NF''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22R''' || 229 || 175 || 211 || 9 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24''' || 260 || 173 || 225 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24F''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24H''' || 260 || 173 || 238 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24R''' || 260 || 173 || 229 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24T''' || 260 || 173 || 248 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''25''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26R''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27''' || 306 || 173 || 225 || 12 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27F''' || 318 || 173 || 227 || 12 1/2 || 6 13/16 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27H''' || 298 || 173 || 235 || 11 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''29NF''' || 330 || 140 || 227 || 13 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''33''' || 338 || 173 || 238 || 13 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 13/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34R''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''35''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''36R''' || 263 || 183 || 206 || 10 3/8 || 7 1/4 || 8 1/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''40R''' || 277 || 175 || 175 || 10 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''41''' || 293 || 175 || 175 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''42''' || 243 || 173 || 173 || 9 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''43''' || 334 || 175 || 205 || 13 1/8 || 6 7/8 || 8 1/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''45''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''46''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''47''' || 246 || 175 || 190 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''48''' || 306 || 175 || 192 || 12 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''49''' || 381 || 175 || 192 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 7 3/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''50''' || 343 || 127 || 254 || 13 1/2 || 5 || 10 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51R''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''52''' || 186 || 147 || 210 || 7 5/16 || 5 13/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''53''' || 330 || 119 || 210 || 13 || 4 11/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''54''' || 186 || 154 || 212 || 7 5/16 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''55''' || 218 || 154 || 212 || 8 5/8 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''56''' || 254 || 154 || 222 || 10 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''57''' || 205 || 183 || 177 || 8 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58R''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''59''' || 255 || 193 || 196 || 10 1/16 || 7 5/8 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''60''' || 332 || 160 || 225 || 13 1/16 || 6 5/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''61''' || 192 || 162 || 225 || 7 9/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''62''' || 225 || 162 || 225 || 8 7/8 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''63''' || 258 || 162 || 225 || 10 3/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''64''' || 296 || 162 || 225 || 11 11/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''65''' || 306 || 190 || 292 || 12 1/16 || 7 1/2 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''70''' || 208 || 179 || 196 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''71''' || 208 || 179 || 216 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''72''' || 230 || 179 || 210 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''73''' || 230 || 179 || 216 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''74''' || 260 || 184 || 222 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/4 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''75''' || 230 || 179 || 196 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''76''' || 334 || 179 || 216 || 13 1/8 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''78''' || 260 || 179 || 196 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''85''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''86''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''90''' || 246 || 175 || 175 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''91''' || 280 || 175 || 175 || 11 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''92''' || 317 || 175 || 175 || 12 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''93''' || 354 || 175 || 175 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''95R''' || 394 || 175 || 190 || 15 9/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''96R''' || 242 || 173 || 175 || 9 9/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''97R''' || 252 || 175 || 190 || 9 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''98R''' || 283 || 175 || 190 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Battery Chemistries|*]]<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Electrical_Formulas&diff=5925Electrical Formulas2006-10-22T17:46:18Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
==W=Q x E==<br />
<br />
Where W = Watts is the energy absorbed in a<br />
electrical circuit in watts per second<br />
<br />
Q = Coulombs is the quantity of electricity<br />
which is transferred between two points<br />
<br />
E = Voltage or Electro Motive Force<br />
<br />
<br />
Dividing both sides of the equation by time it takes for the quantity Q to flow in a circuits becomes:<br />
<br />
W/T = (Q x E)/T or P = I x E<br />
<br />
Where P Is the Power in amount of time.<br />
<br />
I is the rate of flow in seconds or hour<br />
<br />
E is the e.m.f<br />
<br />
<br />
Simplify to:<br />
<br />
W = I x E (watts or energy - no time)<br />
<br />
Wh = I x E (watt hour - amount for 1 hour)<br />
<br />
<br />
===Example:===<br />
<br />
If you are charging a battery pack at 240 volts AC at 50 amps AC, then 240V x 50A = 12 KW or 12,000 watts (input into the charger)<br />
<br />
If you charge for 1 hour, than this will become 12 KWH or if you charge for <br />
1 second, than the cost of Power will be 12 Kw/3600 secs (3600 seconds in <br />
a hour).<br />
<br />
If you drive the EV for one hour at 50 battery amps and 100 volts, than you will use about 50 ADC x 100 VDC = 5KW Per Hour or 5KWH.<br />
<br />
The HP (horsepower) use, where 1 HP = 746 watts:<br />
<br />
HP = Watts/ 746 = 5000 / 746 = 6.7 HP<br />
<br />
<br />
If you look on some motor labels on a motor, or in the specifications of that motor, You may see data as:<br />
<br />
165V @ 175A 32HP 6000 RPM 83% Effiency.<br />
<br />
To calculate this:<br />
<br />
W = 165V x 175A = 28,875 watts (input energy)<br />
<br />
28,875 x .83 = 23,966 watts (output energy)<br />
<br />
HP = 23,966 / 746 = 32.1 HP<br />
<br />
<br />
Roland</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Batteries&diff=5924Batteries2006-10-22T17:44:49Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{TOCright}}<br />
{{Batteries}}<br />
<br />
====Primary (Disposable)====<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-carbon battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Alkaline battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Silver-oxide battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Lithium battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Mercury battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Zinc-air battery]]<br />
<br />
====Secondary (Rechargeable)====<br />
* [[PbA|Lead-acid battery]]<br />
** [[Absorbed glass mat]]<br />
** [[WikiPedia:Gel battery]]<br />
** [[Flooded]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-cadmium battery]] & [[Ni|Nickel metal hydride battery]]<br />
* [[Ni|Nickel-zinc battery]]<br />
* [[Li|lithium-ion battery]] & [[Li|lithium ion polymer battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:NaS battery]]<br />
* [[Sodium-metal chloride battery]]<br />
* [[WikiPedia:Vanadium redox battery]]<br />
* http://www.zmp.com/ - Zinc Matrix Power<br />
<br />
===Traction batteries===<br />
Traction batteries (secondary batteries or accumulators) are designed to provide power to move a vehicle, such as an electric car or tow motor.<br />
To prevent spilling, the electrolyte in some traction batteries is gelled. The electrolyte may also be embedded in a glass wool which is wound so that the cells have a round cross-sectional area ([[Absorbed glass mat|AGM-type]]).<br />
The following types are also in use[http://www.madkatz.com/ev/battery.html]:<br />
* Zebra NiNaCl (or NaNiCl) battery operating at 270 °C requiring cooling in case of temperature excursions<br />
* NiZn battery (higher cell voltage 1.6 V and thus 25% increased specific energy, very short lifespan)<br />
<br />
Lithium-ion batteries are now pushing out NiMh-technology in the sector while for low investment costs the lead-acid technology remains in the leading role[http://www.e-mobile.ch/pdf/2005/Subat_WP5-006.pdf].<br />
<br />
===Flow batteries===<br />
[[Flow Battery|Flow batteries]] are a special class of battery where additional quantities of [[electrolyte]] are stored outside the main power cell of the battery, and circulated through it by pumps or by movement. Flow batteries can have extremely large capacities and are used in marine applications and are gaining popularity in [[grid energy storage]] applications. [[EVDL_Maillist:2006./2./1016]]<br />
<br />
== Battery Calcualtions ==<br />
What size and how many batteries do I need?<br />
* [[Electrical Formulas]]<br />
== Battery Charging ==<br />
[[Battery Charging]]<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* http://freeenergynews.com/Directory/Battery/index.html<br />
<br />
==Dimension Standards==<br />
http://www.definity-systems.net/Transportation/EV/Li-ion/Regular/BCIdimensions.html<br />
<br />
{| BORDER=1<br />
| colspan=7 |<br />
BCI GROUP NUMBERS AND DIMENSIONS<br />
Contact BCI, 401 N. Michigan ave, Chicago IL 60611-4267, (312) 644-6610<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER COLSPAN=7 | Maximum Overall Dimensions<br />
|-<br />
| ALIGN=center | '''Group #'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Millimeters'''<br />
| COLSPAN=3 ALIGN=center | '''Inches'''<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''L'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''W'''<br />
| ALIGN=CENTER bgcolor="006600" width=75 | '''H'''<br />
|-<br />
| '''21''' || 208 || 173 || 222 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22F''' || 241 || 175 || 211 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22HF''' || 241 || 175 || 229 || 9 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22NF''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''22R''' || 229 || 175 || 211 || 9 || 6 7/8 || 8 5/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24''' || 260 || 173 || 225 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24F''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24H''' || 260 || 173 || 238 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24R''' || 260 || 173 || 229 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''24T''' || 260 || 173 || 248 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''25''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''26R''' || 208 || 173 || 197 || 8 3/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27''' || 306 || 173 || 225 || 12 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27F''' || 318 || 173 || 227 || 12 1/2 || 6 13/16 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''27H''' || 298 || 173 || 235 || 11 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''29NF''' || 330 || 140 || 227 || 13 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''33''' || 338 || 173 || 238 || 13 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 9 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 13/16 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''34R''' || 260 || 173 || 200 || 10 1/4 || 6 13/16 || 7 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''35''' || 230 || 175 || 225 || 9 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''36R''' || 263 || 183 || 206 || 10 3/8 || 7 1/4 || 8 1/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''40R''' || 277 || 175 || 175 || 10 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''41''' || 293 || 175 || 175 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''42''' || 243 || 173 || 173 || 9 5/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''43''' || 334 || 175 || 205 || 13 1/8 || 6 7/8 || 8 1/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''45''' || 240 || 140 || 227 || 9 7/16 || 5 1/2 || 8 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''46''' || 273 || 173 || 229 || 10 3/4 || 6 13/16 || 9 <br />
|-<br />
| '''47''' || 246 || 175 || 190 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''48''' || 306 || 175 || 192 || 12 1/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''49''' || 381 || 175 || 192 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 7 3/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''50''' || 343 || 127 || 254 || 13 1/2 || 5 || 10 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''51R''' || 238 || 129 || 223 || 9 3/8 || 5 1/16 || 8 13/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''52''' || 186 || 147 || 210 || 7 5/16 || 5 13/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''53''' || 330 || 119 || 210 || 13 || 4 11/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''54''' || 186 || 154 || 212 || 7 5/16 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''55''' || 218 || 154 || 212 || 8 5/8 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''56''' || 254 || 154 || 222 || 10 || 6 1/16 || 8 3/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''57''' || 205 || 183 || 177 || 8 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''58R''' || 255 || 183 || 177 || 10 1/16 || 7 3/16 || 6 15/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''59''' || 255 || 193 || 196 || 10 1/16 || 7 5/8 || 7 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''60''' || 332 || 160 || 225 || 13 1/16 || 6 5/16 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''61''' || 192 || 162 || 225 || 7 9/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''62''' || 225 || 162 || 225 || 8 7/8 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''63''' || 258 || 162 || 225 || 10 3/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''64''' || 296 || 162 || 225 || 11 11/16 || 6 3/8 || 8 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''65''' || 306 || 190 || 292 || 12 1/16 || 7 1/2 || 7 9/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''70''' || 208 || 179 || 196 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''71''' || 208 || 179 || 216 || 8 3/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''72''' || 230 || 179 || 210 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''73''' || 230 || 179 || 216 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''74''' || 260 || 184 || 222 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/4 || 8 3/4 <br />
|-<br />
| '''75''' || 230 || 179 || 196 || 9 1/16 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''76''' || 334 || 179 || 216 || 13 1/8 || 7 1/16 || 8 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''78''' || 260 || 179 || 196 || 10 1/4 || 7 1/16 || 7 11/16 <br />
|-<br />
| '''85''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''86''' || 230 || 173 || 203 || 9 1/16 || 6 13/16 || 8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''90''' || 246 || 175 || 175 || 9 11/16 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''91''' || 280 || 175 || 175 || 11 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''92''' || 317 || 175 || 175 || 12 1/2 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''93''' || 354 || 175 || 175 || 15 || 6 7/8 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''95R''' || 394 || 175 || 190 || 15 9/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''96R''' || 242 || 173 || 175 || 9 9/16 || 6 13/16 || 6 7/8 <br />
|-<br />
| '''97R''' || 252 || 175 || 190 || 9 15/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|-<br />
| '''98R''' || 283 || 175 || 190 || 11 3/16 || 6 7/8 || 7 1/2 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Battery Chemistries|*]]<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Electric_motor&diff=5923Electric motor2006-10-22T17:13:41Z<p>71.142.72.99: /* Ac Motors */</p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Electric motor]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]<br />
<br />
==DC motors==<br />
<br />
==Ac Motors==<br />
* http://www.metricmind.com/<br />
* http://www.acpropulsion.com/</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Electric_motor&diff=5922Electric motor2006-10-22T17:12:46Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Electric motor]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]<br />
<br />
==DC motors==<br />
<br />
==Ac Motors==<br />
* http://www.metricmind.com/</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5921Motor controller2006-10-22T17:11:38Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
===Contactor===<br />
Simplest controller - just a contactor (high current relay) to turn the power on or off. Could have more than one contactor and resistors to enable stepped speed control.<br />
<br />
===DC===<br />
The most commonly used controllers - for DC motors<br />
popular manufacturers:<br />
* [http://www.curtisinst.com/Curtis Curtis]<br />
* [http://cafeelectric.com/ Zilla]<br />
<br />
Do it yourself schematics: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/tech/<br />
====Wish List====<br />
My essential spec/feature list for a Curtis"-Killer" DC controller is:<br />
<br />
* 600 adjustable battery amps<br />
* handles at least the range of 96-144V; 156V is almost essential, and up to ~200V would be even better<br />
* precharge/contactor control<br />
* basic fault detection (open/short throttle, high pedal lockout)<br />
* rev limiter (and a tach drive output sure would be nice)<br />
* integrated heatsink (water-cooled is preferable<br />
* priced on par with 1231C + appropriate heatsink.<br />
* contactor failure detection<br />
* controller failure detection & auto contactor dropout<br />
<br />
''I got a kit from KTA using a 1231C-7701 for my 120v system.''<br />
<br />
Did they tell you up front that this controller will cause your EV's drive motor to make an irritating non-varying squeal when you take off or cruise with a light throttle? Did they tell you that this controller has no safety features? Did they tell you it has no automatic precharge, and that if you don't design your own, it could blow up when the line contactor engages and send your EV off at full throttle? Did they tell you it cannot be adjusted for a battery input current limit to protect your battery pack investment? My guess is no to all the above.<br />
<br />
If it's not too late, you could save a bundle by purchasing a used Curtis 1221B controller. It's a bit less powerful at 400 amps, but it's silent and you could get one for maybe $300 if anyone has one available. <br />
The money saved would allow you to build a precharge circuit and pocket at least $500 cash, too. Better still, a used Raptor 600 could be found for maybe $800, is silent, properly cooled, has dip switch programming, and 900 amps motor loop current.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a [http://www.curtisinst.com/ Curtis]?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
Is this one of those comments again, where one has to have read everything that came before and know that you might be talking about wet cell type batteries (and just didn't specify this), or do you really think that currents this low will harm powerful AGMs like Optimas, Hawkers, and Orbitals? Those of us using AGMs of higher quality know that the opposite is true, in that the high performance type AGMs actually give their best service life routinely dishing out BIG currents. 600 amps from the better AGMs is nothing. The Optimas in Blue Meanie lasted 6.5 years, and pretty close to each time it was taken out for a run, 1000 amps were sucked from them multiple times. Sure, under all out racing where you might suck 1000 amps from small 24.5 lb. <br />
batteries for 12 continuous seconds, it is stressful and sometimes fatal for the batteries, but for normal fun street driving 1000 amps for 5-6 seconds from larger 40+ lb. AGMs is kid's stuff....besides, you're already well above the speed limit in that amount of time and will be off throttle and back to sub 100 amp levels.<br />
<br />
===AC===<br />
Controllers for AC motors<br />
* [http://www.acpropulsion.com/ AC Propulsion]<br />
* Vendor of Siemens AC motors and controllers http://www.metricmind.com/<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Conversions&diff=5920Conversions2006-10-22T16:50:19Z<p>71.142.72.99: /* Annotated On-line References */</p>
<hr />
<div>A '''conversion electric vehicle''' is a car which has been converted from an internal combustion engine (ICE) drive to an [[Electric vehicle|electric propulsion drive vehicle]]. The conversion EV is the most widespread form of electric vehicle on the road today.<br />
<br />
One reason the conversion is so popular among EV enthusiasts (aside from the relative lack of economical [[Production|production electric vehicles]]) is the possibility of recycling an ICE car which has otherwise outlived its useful life. Another has to do with the fact that the [[Scratchbuilt Electric Vehicle|scratchbuilt EV]] must incorporate the plethora of complex features normally available ready-made on a conversion candidate vehicle: the drive system, all of the mandated safety features, creature comforts, product design, and the frame itself.<br />
<br />
Almost any small, compact ICE vehicle in good structural condition can form the basis for a successful EV conversion. The first step in the process is to remove all of the systems related solely to the gas powered engine drive system: the engine itself, the starter motor, the fuel tank, exhaust pipes, muffler, and cooling system (radiator).<br />
<br />
The major components of the electric propulsion system consist of an [[electric motor]], [[batteries]], a [[charger]], and a [[controller]]. Additionally, various items of support hardware are required, including connectors (wiring), safety devices (fuses), monitoring devices, and interface hardware (such as the [[adaptor plate]]).<br />
<br />
The items necessary for a conversion can be purchased separately or in kit form. In some cases, the kits which are available are specifically tailored to the type of vehicle. In any case, the component parts must work well together as a ''system''.<br />
<br />
==Costs for a Sample Conversions==<br />
<br />
In general, any small car can be converted / recycled to electric drive. Essentially all the complex systems such as the "exhaust system", "cooling system", "fuel delivery system", and motor are replaced with the following:<br />
<br />
An advanced DC [[electric motor]] connected to the existing standard transmission via an [[adaptor plate]]. Motor $1450. Adaptor Plate $700.<br />
<br />
Electronic transistorized [[controller]] (like a giant light dimmer) controls your power and speed. By Curtis-PMC $800. <br />
<br />
[[Battery charger]], fully automatic. Plug it in and walk away for days without harm to the batteries. $400. <br />
<br />
[[Batteries]], 10 - 12 volt, 0r 20 - 6 volt, deep cycle lead acid totaling 120 volts. Choice is one of maximum acceleration or maximum range. $950 <br />
<br />
On/Off power relays, h.d. fuses, h.d. connectors, battery cables, volt meter (measures pressure) and an ammeter (to measure to flow or use of the electricity) $1,200. <br />
<br />
Total hardware $5,500 Assembly and labor (approximately 200 hours) $2,900. <br />
<br />
Approximate grand total $8,500 (plus the donor vehicle)<br />
<br />
Variables exist from car to car as to total labor. There are various upgrades available in equipment and instrumentation to customize the car to the customers liking. * Prices subject to changes without notice by suppliers.<br />
<br />
==Local Conversions==<br />
* Catch a glimpse of a local man and his fathers [[Chevrolet S10 EV|Electric S10 Pickup]] in this [http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3909632706885280284&q=Electric+Cars&hl=en video clip] of Stephens <!--Johnson--> Project ''GotLinks?''.<br />
* The many conversions of Dave Cloud<br />
* A cute red and black porsche<br />
* Goldie and the Ferro of Rich Rudman<br />
* ''...anyone care to flesh out this list...''<br />
<br />
==Annotated On-line References==<br />
<br />
* The [http://evalbum.com EV Photo Album] is an excellent place to learn all about the range, performance, components used, and types of vehicles that have been converted. There are many types of cars, trucks, bikes, boats, and even vehicles that defy description to check out. More than 800 entries and rising weekly. [http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/build Details on conversions] <br />
<br />
* The [http://www.evdl.org Electric Vehicle Discussion List] is an extremely active list which contains a wealth of valuable information about electric vehicles. Take the time to search the archives! You can really get an education on the subject here. Just a small sampling of the folks you will find on the EV Discussion List: Many folks that are doing or have done their own conversions. Some have been driving EVs for decades. Most all the folks who... sell EV parts, design EVs, build custom EVs and do conversions, are on this list. Also... most of the EV drag racers are there, as are the folks who design and manufacture the best and most powerful motor controllers, motors, and chargers.<br />
<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Electric_Vehicle_Conversion EV Conversion] - excellent article from Wikbooks.<br />
<br />
* [http://www.peakoil.com/fortopic9721.html Advice on building an electric car for those interested] - from PeakOil.com<br />
<br />
* [http://www.evsupersite.net/ Converting a 1996 Saturn], by Ken Norwick - of Calgary, Alberta Canada. ken.norwick-at-shaw.ca. Over 200 pages describing a complete electric vehicle conversion project. Hundreds of images document the process in complete detail. This site receives visitors from between 8 to 16 time zones per day. The largest personal EV Conversion Diary on the Internet today. <br />
<br />
* [http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/build ''So you want to Build an Electric Car''], by Mike Chancey<br />
<br />
* [http://www.jerryrig.com/convert Jerry Halstead's conversions]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.electroauto.com Electro-Automotive's web site and price information]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.crosswinds.net/~wtallent/ My Electric MGB Project]<br />
<br />
* [http://jerryrig.com/convert Jerry Halstead's site]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/5565/civic/civic.html Mike Chancey's Civic conversion journal]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.spaces.msn.com/members/dbd3 Don Davidson Conversion blog]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/8679/ev.html Yve's EV Calculator] with charts and graphs on Dozens of the most commonly used EV batteries and EV motors . Also a fantastic EV Calculator program, where you can punch in the type of car, motor, batteries, operating parameters and get a feeling for performance and range expectations.<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_vehicle_conversion - '''Wikipedia'''<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electric Vehicles]]<br />
[[Category:Primary Page]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5919Motor controller2006-10-22T16:46:31Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
===Contactor===<br />
Simplest controller - just a contactor (high current relay) to turn the power on or off. Could have more than one contactor and resistors to enable stepped speed control.<br />
<br />
===DC===<br />
The most commonly used controllers - for DC motors<br />
popular manufacturers:<br />
* [http://www.curtisinst.com/Curtis Curtis]<br />
* [http://cafeelectric.com/ Zilla]<br />
<br />
Do it yourself schematics: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/tech/<br />
====Wish List====<br />
My essential spec/feature list for a Curtis"-Killer" DC controller is:<br />
<br />
* 600 adjustable battery amps<br />
* handles at least the range of 96-144V; 156V is almost essential, and up to ~200V would be even better<br />
* precharge/contactor control<br />
* basic fault detection (open/short throttle, high pedal lockout)<br />
* rev limiter (and a tach drive output sure would be nice)<br />
* integrated heatsink (water-cooled is preferable<br />
* priced on par with 1231C + appropriate heatsink.<br />
* contactor failure detection<br />
* controller failure detection & auto contactor dropout<br />
<br />
''I got a kit from KTA using a 1231C-7701 for my 120v system.''<br />
<br />
Did they tell you up front that this controller will cause your EV's drive motor to make an irritating non-varying squeal when you take off or cruise with a light throttle? Did they tell you that this controller has no safety features? Did they tell you it has no automatic precharge, and that if you don't design your own, it could blow up when the line contactor engages and send your EV off at full throttle? Did they tell you it cannot be adjusted for a battery input current limit to protect your battery pack investment? My guess is no to all the above.<br />
<br />
If it's not too late, you could save a bundle by purchasing a used Curtis 1221B controller. It's a bit less powerful at 400 amps, but it's silent and you could get one for maybe $300 if anyone has one available. <br />
The money saved would allow you to build a precharge circuit and pocket at least $500 cash, too. Better still, a used Raptor 600 could be found for maybe $800, is silent, properly cooled, has dip switch programming, and 900 amps motor loop current.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a [http://www.curtisinst.com/ Curtis]?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
Is this one of those comments again, where one has to have read everything that came before and know that you might be talking about wet cell type batteries (and just didn't specify this), or do you really think that currents this low will harm powerful AGMs like Optimas, Hawkers, and Orbitals? Those of us using AGMs of higher quality know that the opposite is true, in that the high performance type AGMs actually give their best service life routinely dishing out BIG currents. 600 amps from the better AGMs is nothing. The Optimas in Blue Meanie lasted 6.5 years, and pretty close to each time it was taken out for a run, 1000 amps were sucked from them multiple times. Sure, under all out racing where you might suck 1000 amps from small 24.5 lb. <br />
batteries for 12 continuous seconds, it is stressful and sometimes fatal for the batteries, but for normal fun street driving 1000 amps for 5-6 seconds from larger 40+ lb. AGMs is kid's stuff....besides, you're already well above the speed limit in that amount of time and will be off throttle and back to sub 100 amp levels.<br />
<br />
===AC===<br />
Controllers for AC motors<br />
[http://www.acpropulsion.com/ AC Propulsion]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5918Motor controller2006-10-21T19:56:41Z<p>71.142.72.99: /* AC */</p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
===Contactor===<br />
Simplest controller - just a contactor (high current relay) to turn the power on or off. Could have more than one contactor and resistors to enable stepped speed control.<br />
<br />
===DC===<br />
The most commonly used controllers - for DC motors<br />
popular manufacturers:<br />
* [http://www.curtisinst.com/Curtis Curtis]<br />
* [http://cafeelectric.com/ Zilla]<br />
====Wish List====<br />
My essential spec/feature list for a Curtis"-Killer" DC controller is:<br />
<br />
* 600 adjustable battery amps<br />
* handles at least the range of 96-144V; 156V is almost essential, and up to ~200V would be even better<br />
* precharge/contactor control<br />
* basic fault detection (open/short throttle, high pedal lockout)<br />
* rev limiter (and a tach drive output sure would be nice)<br />
* integrated heatsink (water-cooled is preferable<br />
* priced on par with 1231C + appropriate heatsink.<br />
* contactor failure detection<br />
* controller failure detection & auto contactor dropout<br />
<br />
''I got a kit from KTA using a 1231C-7701 for my 120v system.''<br />
<br />
Did they tell you up front that this controller will cause your EV's drive motor to make an irritating non-varying squeal when you take off or cruise with a light throttle? Did they tell you that this controller has no safety features? Did they tell you it has no automatic precharge, and that if you don't design your own, it could blow up when the line contactor engages and send your EV off at full throttle? Did they tell you it cannot be adjusted for a battery input current limit to protect your battery pack investment? My guess is no to all the above.<br />
<br />
If it's not too late, you could save a bundle by purchasing a used Curtis 1221B controller. It's a bit less powerful at 400 amps, but it's silent and you could get one for maybe $300 if anyone has one available. <br />
The money saved would allow you to build a precharge circuit and pocket at least $500 cash, too. Better still, a used Raptor 600 could be found for maybe $800, is silent, properly cooled, has dip switch programming, and 900 amps motor loop current.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a [http://www.curtisinst.com/ Curtis]?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
Is this one of those comments again, where one has to have read everything that came before and know that you might be talking about wet cell type batteries (and just didn't specify this), or do you really think that currents this low will harm powerful AGMs like Optimas, Hawkers, and Orbitals? Those of us using AGMs of higher quality know that the opposite is true, in that the high performance type AGMs actually give their best service life routinely dishing out BIG currents. 600 amps from the better AGMs is nothing. The Optimas in Blue Meanie lasted 6.5 years, and pretty close to each time it was taken out for a run, 1000 amps were sucked from them multiple times. Sure, under all out racing where you might suck 1000 amps from small 24.5 lb. <br />
batteries for 12 continuous seconds, it is stressful and sometimes fatal for the batteries, but for normal fun street driving 1000 amps for 5-6 seconds from larger 40+ lb. AGMs is kid's stuff....besides, you're already well above the speed limit in that amount of time and will be off throttle and back to sub 100 amp levels.<br />
<br />
===AC===<br />
Controllers for AC motors<br />
[http://www.acpropulsion.com/ AC Propulsion]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5917Motor controller2006-10-21T19:56:10Z<p>71.142.72.99: /* Wish List */</p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
===Contactor===<br />
Simplest controller - just a contactor (high current relay) to turn the power on or off. Could have more than one contactor and resistors to enable stepped speed control.<br />
<br />
===DC===<br />
The most commonly used controllers - for DC motors<br />
popular manufacturers:<br />
* [http://www.curtisinst.com/Curtis Curtis]<br />
* [http://cafeelectric.com/ Zilla]<br />
====Wish List====<br />
My essential spec/feature list for a Curtis"-Killer" DC controller is:<br />
<br />
* 600 adjustable battery amps<br />
* handles at least the range of 96-144V; 156V is almost essential, and up to ~200V would be even better<br />
* precharge/contactor control<br />
* basic fault detection (open/short throttle, high pedal lockout)<br />
* rev limiter (and a tach drive output sure would be nice)<br />
* integrated heatsink (water-cooled is preferable<br />
* priced on par with 1231C + appropriate heatsink.<br />
* contactor failure detection<br />
* controller failure detection & auto contactor dropout<br />
<br />
''I got a kit from KTA using a 1231C-7701 for my 120v system.''<br />
<br />
Did they tell you up front that this controller will cause your EV's drive motor to make an irritating non-varying squeal when you take off or cruise with a light throttle? Did they tell you that this controller has no safety features? Did they tell you it has no automatic precharge, and that if you don't design your own, it could blow up when the line contactor engages and send your EV off at full throttle? Did they tell you it cannot be adjusted for a battery input current limit to protect your battery pack investment? My guess is no to all the above.<br />
<br />
If it's not too late, you could save a bundle by purchasing a used Curtis 1221B controller. It's a bit less powerful at 400 amps, but it's silent and you could get one for maybe $300 if anyone has one available. <br />
The money saved would allow you to build a precharge circuit and pocket at least $500 cash, too. Better still, a used Raptor 600 could be found for maybe $800, is silent, properly cooled, has dip switch programming, and 900 amps motor loop current.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a [http://www.curtisinst.com/ Curtis]?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
Is this one of those comments again, where one has to have read everything that came before and know that you might be talking about wet cell type batteries (and just didn't specify this), or do you really think that currents this low will harm powerful AGMs like Optimas, Hawkers, and Orbitals? Those of us using AGMs of higher quality know that the opposite is true, in that the high performance type AGMs actually give their best service life routinely dishing out BIG currents. 600 amps from the better AGMs is nothing. The Optimas in Blue Meanie lasted 6.5 years, and pretty close to each time it was taken out for a run, 1000 amps were sucked from them multiple times. Sure, under all out racing where you might suck 1000 amps from small 24.5 lb. <br />
batteries for 12 continuous seconds, it is stressful and sometimes fatal for the batteries, but for normal fun street driving 1000 amps for 5-6 seconds from larger 40+ lb. AGMs is kid's stuff....besides, you're already well above the speed limit in that amount of time and will be off throttle and back to sub 100 amp levels.<br />
<br />
===AC===<br />
[http://www.acpropulsion.com/ AC Propulsion]<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5916Motor controller2006-10-21T19:55:34Z<p>71.142.72.99: /* DC */</p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
===Contactor===<br />
Simplest controller - just a contactor (high current relay) to turn the power on or off. Could have more than one contactor and resistors to enable stepped speed control.<br />
<br />
===DC===<br />
The most commonly used controllers - for DC motors<br />
popular manufacturers:<br />
* [http://www.curtisinst.com/Curtis Curtis]<br />
* [http://cafeelectric.com/ Zilla]<br />
====Wish List====<br />
My essential spec/feature list for a Curtis-Killer is:<br />
<br />
* 600 adjustable battery amps<br />
* handles at least the range of 96-144V; 156V is almost essential, and up to ~200V would be even better<br />
* precharge/contactor control<br />
* basic fault detection (open/short throttle, high pedal lockout)<br />
* rev limiter (and a tach drive output sure would be nice)<br />
* integrated heatsink (water-cooled is preferable<br />
* priced on par with 1231C + appropriate heatsink.<br />
* contactor failure detection<br />
* controller failure detection & auto contactor dropout<br />
<br />
''I got a kit from KTA using a 1231C-7701 for my 120v system.''<br />
<br />
Did they tell you up front that this controller will cause your EV's drive motor to make an irritating non-varying squeal when you take off or cruise with a light throttle? Did they tell you that this controller has no safety features? Did they tell you it has no automatic precharge, and that if you don't design your own, it could blow up when the line contactor engages and send your EV off at full throttle? Did they tell you it cannot be adjusted for a battery input current limit to protect your battery pack investment? My guess is no to all the above.<br />
<br />
If it's not too late, you could save a bundle by purchasing a used Curtis 1221B controller. It's a bit less powerful at 400 amps, but it's silent and you could get one for maybe $300 if anyone has one available. <br />
The money saved would allow you to build a precharge circuit and pocket at least $500 cash, too. Better still, a used Raptor 600 could be found for maybe $800, is silent, properly cooled, has dip switch programming, and 900 amps motor loop current.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a [http://www.curtisinst.com/ Curtis]?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
Is this one of those comments again, where one has to have read everything that came before and know that you might be talking about wet cell type batteries (and just didn't specify this), or do you really think that currents this low will harm powerful AGMs like Optimas, Hawkers, and Orbitals? Those of us using AGMs of higher quality know that the opposite is true, in that the high performance type AGMs actually give their best service life routinely dishing out BIG currents. 600 amps from the better AGMs is nothing. The Optimas in Blue Meanie lasted 6.5 years, and pretty close to each time it was taken out for a run, 1000 amps were sucked from them multiple times. Sure, under all out racing where you might suck 1000 amps from small 24.5 lb. <br />
batteries for 12 continuous seconds, it is stressful and sometimes fatal for the batteries, but for normal fun street driving 1000 amps for 5-6 seconds from larger 40+ lb. AGMs is kid's stuff....besides, you're already well above the speed limit in that amount of time and will be off throttle and back to sub 100 amp levels.<br />
<br />
===AC===<br />
[http://www.acpropulsion.com/ AC Propulsion]<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5915Motor controller2006-10-21T19:54:33Z<p>71.142.72.99: /* Contactor */</p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
===Contactor===<br />
Simplest controller - just a contactor (high current relay) to turn the power on or off. Could have more than one contactor and resistors to enable stepped speed control.<br />
<br />
===DC===<br />
[http://www.curtisinst.com/Curtis Curtis]<br />
[http://cafeelectric.com/ Zilla]<br />
====Wish List====<br />
My essential spec/feature list for a Curtis-Killer is:<br />
<br />
* 600 adjustable battery amps<br />
* handles at least the range of 96-144V; 156V is almost essential, and up to ~200V would be even better<br />
* precharge/contactor control<br />
* basic fault detection (open/short throttle, high pedal lockout)<br />
* rev limiter (and a tach drive output sure would be nice)<br />
* integrated heatsink (water-cooled is preferable<br />
* priced on par with 1231C + appropriate heatsink.<br />
* contactor failure detection<br />
* controller failure detection & auto contactor dropout<br />
<br />
''I got a kit from KTA using a 1231C-7701 for my 120v system.''<br />
<br />
Did they tell you up front that this controller will cause your EV's drive motor to make an irritating non-varying squeal when you take off or cruise with a light throttle? Did they tell you that this controller has no safety features? Did they tell you it has no automatic precharge, and that if you don't design your own, it could blow up when the line contactor engages and send your EV off at full throttle? Did they tell you it cannot be adjusted for a battery input current limit to protect your battery pack investment? My guess is no to all the above.<br />
<br />
If it's not too late, you could save a bundle by purchasing a used Curtis 1221B controller. It's a bit less powerful at 400 amps, but it's silent and you could get one for maybe $300 if anyone has one available. <br />
The money saved would allow you to build a precharge circuit and pocket at least $500 cash, too. Better still, a used Raptor 600 could be found for maybe $800, is silent, properly cooled, has dip switch programming, and 900 amps motor loop current.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a [http://www.curtisinst.com/ Curtis]?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
Is this one of those comments again, where one has to have read everything that came before and know that you might be talking about wet cell type batteries (and just didn't specify this), or do you really think that currents this low will harm powerful AGMs like Optimas, Hawkers, and Orbitals? Those of us using AGMs of higher quality know that the opposite is true, in that the high performance type AGMs actually give their best service life routinely dishing out BIG currents. 600 amps from the better AGMs is nothing. The Optimas in Blue Meanie lasted 6.5 years, and pretty close to each time it was taken out for a run, 1000 amps were sucked from them multiple times. Sure, under all out racing where you might suck 1000 amps from small 24.5 lb. <br />
batteries for 12 continuous seconds, it is stressful and sometimes fatal for the batteries, but for normal fun street driving 1000 amps for 5-6 seconds from larger 40+ lb. AGMs is kid's stuff....besides, you're already well above the speed limit in that amount of time and will be off throttle and back to sub 100 amp levels.<br />
<br />
===AC===<br />
[http://www.acpropulsion.com/ AC Propulsion]<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5914Motor controller2006-10-21T19:53:00Z<p>71.142.72.99: /* DC */</p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
===Contactor===<br />
===DC===<br />
[http://www.curtisinst.com/Curtis Curtis]<br />
[http://cafeelectric.com/ Zilla]<br />
====Wish List====<br />
My essential spec/feature list for a Curtis-Killer is:<br />
<br />
* 600 adjustable battery amps<br />
* handles at least the range of 96-144V; 156V is almost essential, and up to ~200V would be even better<br />
* precharge/contactor control<br />
* basic fault detection (open/short throttle, high pedal lockout)<br />
* rev limiter (and a tach drive output sure would be nice)<br />
* integrated heatsink (water-cooled is preferable<br />
* priced on par with 1231C + appropriate heatsink.<br />
* contactor failure detection<br />
* controller failure detection & auto contactor dropout<br />
<br />
''I got a kit from KTA using a 1231C-7701 for my 120v system.''<br />
<br />
Did they tell you up front that this controller will cause your EV's drive motor to make an irritating non-varying squeal when you take off or cruise with a light throttle? Did they tell you that this controller has no safety features? Did they tell you it has no automatic precharge, and that if you don't design your own, it could blow up when the line contactor engages and send your EV off at full throttle? Did they tell you it cannot be adjusted for a battery input current limit to protect your battery pack investment? My guess is no to all the above.<br />
<br />
If it's not too late, you could save a bundle by purchasing a used Curtis 1221B controller. It's a bit less powerful at 400 amps, but it's silent and you could get one for maybe $300 if anyone has one available. <br />
The money saved would allow you to build a precharge circuit and pocket at least $500 cash, too. Better still, a used Raptor 600 could be found for maybe $800, is silent, properly cooled, has dip switch programming, and 900 amps motor loop current.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a [http://www.curtisinst.com/ Curtis]?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
Is this one of those comments again, where one has to have read everything that came before and know that you might be talking about wet cell type batteries (and just didn't specify this), or do you really think that currents this low will harm powerful AGMs like Optimas, Hawkers, and Orbitals? Those of us using AGMs of higher quality know that the opposite is true, in that the high performance type AGMs actually give their best service life routinely dishing out BIG currents. 600 amps from the better AGMs is nothing. The Optimas in Blue Meanie lasted 6.5 years, and pretty close to each time it was taken out for a run, 1000 amps were sucked from them multiple times. Sure, under all out racing where you might suck 1000 amps from small 24.5 lb. <br />
batteries for 12 continuous seconds, it is stressful and sometimes fatal for the batteries, but for normal fun street driving 1000 amps for 5-6 seconds from larger 40+ lb. AGMs is kid's stuff....besides, you're already well above the speed limit in that amount of time and will be off throttle and back to sub 100 amp levels.<br />
<br />
===AC===<br />
[http://www.acpropulsion.com/ AC Propulsion]<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5913Motor controller2006-10-21T19:49:01Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
===Contactor===<br />
===DC===<br />
[http://www.curtisinst.com/Curtis Curtis]<br />
a kit from KTA using a 1231C-7701 for my 120v system.<br />
<br />
Did they tell you up front that this controller will cause your EV's drive motor to make an irritating non-varying squeal when you take off or cruise with a light throttle? Did they tell you that this controller has no safety features? Did they tell you it has no automatic precharge, and that if you don't design your own, it could blow up when the line contactor engages and send your EV off at full throttle? Did they tell you it cannot be adjusted for a battery input current limit to protect your battery pack investment? My guess is no to all the above.<br />
<br />
If it's not too late, you could save a bundle by purchasing a used Curtis 1221B controller. It's a bit less powerful at 400 amps, but it's silent and you could get one for maybe $300 if anyone has one available. <br />
The money saved would allow you to build a precharge circuit and pocket at least $500 cash, too. Better still, a used Raptor 600 could be found for maybe $800, is silent, properly cooled, has dip switch programming, and 900 amps motor loop current.<br />
<br />
[http://cafeelectric.com/ Zilla]<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a [http://www.curtisinst.com/ Curtis]?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
Is this one of those comments again, where one has to have read everything that came before and know that you might be talking about wet cell type batteries (and just didn't specify this), or do you really think that currents this low will harm powerful AGMs like Optimas, Hawkers, and Orbitals? Those of us using AGMs of higher quality know that the opposite is true, in that the high performance type AGMs actually give their best service life routinely dishing out BIG currents. 600 amps from the better AGMs is nothing. The Optimas in Blue Meanie lasted 6.5 years, and pretty close to each time it was taken out for a run, 1000 amps were sucked from them multiple times. Sure, under all out racing where you might suck 1000 amps from small 24.5 lb. <br />
batteries for 12 continuous seconds, it is stressful and sometimes fatal for the batteries, but for normal fun street driving 1000 amps for 5-6 seconds from larger 40+ lb. AGMs is kid's stuff....besides, you're already well above the speed limit in that amount of time and will be off throttle and back to sub 100 amp levels.<br />
<br />
===AC===<br />
[http://www.acpropulsion.com/ AC Propulsion]<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5912Motor controller2006-10-21T19:45:18Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
===Contactor===<br />
===DC===<br />
[http://www.curtisinst.com/Curtis Curtis]<br />
[http://cafeelectric.com/ Zilla]<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a [http://www.curtisinst.com/ Curtis]?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency<br />
EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
John Wayland will chime in anytime to set you straight on this ;^><br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
===AC===<br />
[http://www.acpropulsion.com/ AC Propulsion]<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5911Motor controller2006-10-21T19:40:59Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a [http://www.curtisinst.com/ Curtis]?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency<br />
EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
John Wayland will chime in anytime to set you straight on this ;^><br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5910Motor controller2006-10-21T19:38:26Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very functional. Why would I buy a Curtis?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency<br />
EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
'''As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
John Wayland will chime in anytime to set you straight on this ;^><br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5909Motor controller2006-10-21T19:37:39Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
<br />
'''Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE <br />
EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. <br />
Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very <br />
functional. Why would I buy a Curtis?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency<br />
EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
''' As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some <br />
GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It <br />
may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
'''When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the pack.'''<br />
<br />
John Wayland will chime in anytime to set you straight on this ;^><br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5908Motor controller2006-10-21T19:36:40Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
<br />
''' Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE <br />
EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. <br />
Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very <br />
functional. Why would I buy a Curtis?'''<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency<br />
EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
''' As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some <br />
GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It <br />
may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
(maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. '''<br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
> When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the <br />
> pack.<br />
<br />
John Wayland will chime in anytime to set you straight on this ;^><br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99https://www.seattleeva.org/mw/index.php?title=Motor_controller&diff=5907Motor controller2006-10-21T19:35:50Z<p>71.142.72.99: </p>
<hr />
<div>See [[WikiPedia:Motor controller]]<br />
<br />
> Consider the used / surplus market where I can get a complete GE <br />
> EV-1 fully functional with pot box and contactors for $100 or less. <br />
> Or an EV-100 or even EV-200. All used, all cheap, all still very <br />
> functional. Why would I buy a Curtis?<br />
<br />
Two main reasons: we're all typically wanting more range from our Evs, and a modern high-frequency controller like (even) the Curtis will give you nearly 2x the range from the same battery pack; and, we're all typically wanting more life from our batteries, and the low-frequency<br />
EV-1 type controllers will kill your pack faster than the higher frequency alternatives.<br />
<br />
The only EV-1 worth considering for an on-road EV is the 84-144V model; how common are these on the used market?<br />
<br />
> As far as controller rebuilding and modifications, why not buy some <br />
> GE EV-1's as I have done and try to boost the voltage / current. It <br />
> may be possible to take it up to 144 V<br />
> (maybe) and current (double up the SCR) and some other stuff. <br />
<br />
144V is certainly possible, since the EV-1 used in the Jet Industries Electrica 007 cars is rated for 84-144V. I've been told that reliability may suffer if pushed right to 144V, but certainly they hold up fine at 120V.<br />
<br />
The current thing has been done also. Its been years since I've seen a post from Dale Glubrecht on the list, but as I recall he described having but together a monster EV-1 using the high current panel from a lower voltage model and the control card from a higher voltage model.<br />
The comment that sticks in my mind is that he didn't hear a growling noise from his motor; he could hear his *batteries* complain from the high current pulses they were being subjected to!<br />
<br />
> When you get to more than 600 batt amps, you are really killing the <br />
> pack.<br />
<br />
John Wayland will chime in anytime to set you straight on this ;^><br />
<br />
Floodeds don't like the high current, but AGMs such as Optimas, Orbitals, and Hawkers don't mind it at all.<br />
<br />
The key here is that with controllers such as the Zilla, DCP, etc. vs the Curtis, you can adjust the maximum battery amps to a limit appropriate for your batteries, *without* restricting the low speed motor current. With a Curtis, if you turn down the current to protect the batteries, then the motor current is similarly reduced and acceleration suffers.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:BEV components]]</div>71.142.72.99