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Author Topic: Russco charger questions  (Read 4134 times)
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StorminN
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« Topic Start: October 12, 2008, 08:19:20 pm »

Hi folks,

Does anyone have a manual (or at least the last half of a manual) for a Russco SC 30-120?

A friend of mine has an EV he recently bought, with a Russco SC 30-120 charger onboard. The manual he has for the charger is missing the last 1/2 of the book... it ends at page 8, but the index shows that there should be 17 or more pages?... so it's missing key information, like how to properly set the voltage setting on the charger.

The SC 30-120 is a three-stage charger, and I understand that:
The current setting should be set to the maximum amps that you can draw through the outlet you're plugged into... right now, he has his set to about 8A (he doesn't yet have a dedicated outlet to charge his EV).
The voltage setting... I'm not sure what to set this to and how to set it (his manual is missing the page with the table), but I assume (?!?) that the second stage voltage for a 120V pack should be about 132V?
The shut off setting... I understand that turning the pot will select ½, 1¼, 2½, or 5 hours of third stage charging, but I'm not sure what to set it to... what are the benefits of each?

I should add that my friend called Russco and was sort of brushed off and told by the guy there that the manual has been revised and basically, all the info he needs is on the few pages (8?) that he has... but it clearly isn't...

Thanks in advance for any help...

-N.
« Last Edit: October 12, 2008, 08:22:20 pm by StorminN » Logged
Paul
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« Reply #1: October 13, 2008, 09:31:45 pm »

This is the manufacturers web site <http://www.russcoev.com/>. You can click on the FAQ link to find out the for each of the Russco charger settings.

I owned and used one for several years. The manual went with it when I sold it but they are pretty simple and I would be happy to help.

If the EV in question is full of 6 volt golf cart lead the target voltage will be about 2.5 volts per cell. This is negotiable depending on hold time and 3rd stage settings. The voltage setting of the Russco isn't completely stiff. As the current drops well below the maximum the voltage will creep up a little. It can work out well for flooded batteries because they like having the voltage cranked up a bit at the end of charge.
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StorminN
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« Reply #2: October 14, 2008, 08:42:02 am »

Hi Paul,

Yes, I've looked all through Russco's web site, but it wasn't helpful... it just has an overview of the charger functions, even on the FAQ page... for example:
Q: What is the Voltage Control for?
A: The Voltage Control adjusts the second stage desired battery finishing voltage. The Voltage Control can be set for 72-156 nominal pack voltage.

Yep, I understand that part, but what I'm looking for is the actual procedure to set the voltage control to a specific voltage... ie., do you set it open circuit, or under a load, do you set it by setting the pot to a certain number and then watching the voltage rise until the charger goes into the third stage of charging (light blinking), etc., or do you set it by setting the voltage control to a certain number (0 to 100) that corresponds to a voltage on the voltage chart that's supposed to be on one of the pages that's missing from my friend's manual??

This EV does have twenty 6V golf cart batteries, so from your 2.5V per cell number, that's 150V target... you're saying this is for the second stage, constant voltage setting? And then the third stage is a constant current setting for a adjustable amount of time, from a 1/2 hour to five hours... but what difference does it make? I realize more time = more charge, but what my friend has of a manual doesn't cover why you would to adjust this, or when to test the voltage, or any of that.

I had emailed the company, and they replied last night... they said that a new (complete) manual would be $10... so we'll order that and see what it says...

-Norm.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2008, 08:43:36 am by StorminN » Logged
leitmotif
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« Reply #3: October 14, 2008, 09:55:07 am »

Norm

FOR LEAD ACID
Consult battery mfr for your battery specific instructions.  Charging methods will vary slightly but the following will be close.
WATER onlly to top of plates to avoid having to clean battery after charge.

Basic charge method is to
start charge. 
Current is controlled to
        the max of charger
        OR charge rate desired ie 4 hr 20 hr rate etc  I have rarely seen a charger that could do a 4 hour rate even at start of charge
Voltage is allowed to rise until it hits gassing voltage TVG (Temp Volt Gassing).  This will be 2.51 volt per cell plus or minus a temperature correction.
When TVG is reached hold voltage there and let current drop off.  On submarine 5,000 AH we stopped charge at 50 amp (1% of AG rating) so maybe 1% of batterey rating shoud be a good guideline.

We ran a normal monthly or so the only difference was voltage was set higher ie 2.62 V per cell.

Initial setup and charge
Install a temporary voltmeter (on mine it would be permanent)
Install a temp ammeter (again permanent on mine)
Start charger watch current and voltage
If current is within charger rating and voltage is low jack up the voltage
Keep doing this until you get to TVG.
Check to make sure charger holds a pretty constant value for TVG say within 1 or 2 percent.
Check every hour or so and see if cells are gassing ideally you want only small bubbles you dont want this percolating like a coffee pot.
IF YOU ARE ABLE
Set the end of charge current setting to 1% of battery capacity

I dont like the idea of a 3rd stage used regularly where you hold current at a set value for a set period
UNLESS you watch battery temperature and are sure you will not overheat them.
I would not let them get much warmer than 100 F
IF that is your only option I would set timer to say one third of allowed time range and see what happens.

IN any case I would run a set of gravities on all cells to ensure they are within 5 or 10 points and at about 1300.  Check battery manual for reccod gravity value.

Dan Bentler
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StorminN
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« Reply #4: October 14, 2008, 12:24:17 pm »

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the reply...

My friend doesn't have a dedicated outlet for his EV charger... so for now, it's limited to under 10A.

So tell me if I've got this right... for now, he should charge at:
10A (limited by power source)
Allow voltage to rise to TVG of 150.6V (+- the temp. corr.)
Let current drop off to under 2.26A (1% of Ah capacity)
Forget about the timed third stage unless you watch the temps (the timer function can be turned off).

The E-Meter installed in this vehicle functions as a voltmeter and Ampmeter... I verified its numbers with my Fluke 85 and they're good.

I will try and run a set of gravities on these batteries and let you know what I read.

Thanks,
-Norm.
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leitmotif
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« Reply #5: October 14, 2008, 01:16:32 pm »

Norm

Sounds like a good plan.  You may err but it wont be by much.

Even if you do err it is still better to get 80 to 90 % charge in that battery than let it sit.  Sooner you back drive that sulfation the better.

One more thing you need to remember
I learned battery charging by doing many many - sitting at a control panel for 4 to six hours tweaking a rheostat every now and then recording readings every 15 minute.  It was otto mated all right -- I was Otto.

I am not used to automatic battery chargers, and as far as automated equipment goes I make a fair amount of money from it because everyone trusts it.

Dan
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Paul
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« Reply #6: October 17, 2008, 04:40:31 pm »

Yep, I understand that part, but what I'm looking for is the actual procedure to set the voltage control to a specific voltage... ie., do you set it open circuit, or under a load, do you set it by setting the pot to a certain number and then watching the voltage rise until the charger goes into the third stage of charging (light blinking), etc., or do you set it by setting the voltage control to a certain number (0 to 100) that corresponds to a voltage on the voltage chart that's supposed to be on one of the pages that's missing from my friend's manual??

A new manual is a good idea. I didn't own one of the newer 3 stage models.

Voltage is set while charging. A 120 volt pack will be somewhere around 3/4 the way to max. I'd just give it all the current you can and watch the voltage. At some point it quits rising and you have to turn the voltage knob up to get it higher (start with the voltage set about 1/2 way so you can work you way up to the target voltage.) 10 amps is a real slow rate for golf cart batteries so getting the bulk charge in is going to take some time. Until the batteries are getting close to fully charged the voltage knob does little, unless its cranked down below than the pack voltage (then it will quickly limit current.)
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